A round-up of the latest news and information you need to know to start your week surrounding all things beauty and grooming.

Legislative/ Regulatory

  • Animal-Test Alternatives Progress In China Despite Regulatory Uncertainty. China took steps earlier this year to begin phasing out required animal-testing for selected cosmetic products; however, the Chinese government has yet to approve any alternative assessment methods. Nonprofit organizations and leading firms such as L’Oreal are focused on helping stakeholders to incorporate in vitro test methods internally and develop their scientific and technical know-how as the regulatory picture crystallizes. (TheRoseSheet)
  • GOP Senate Takeover Makes Bipartisanship Crucial For Cosmetics Bill. With a new Republican majority in the Senate, legislation to overhaul cosmetics regulation in the U.S., which to date has been driven by Democrats, will need bipartisan support to advance. A draft bill is being developed by Sen. Dianne Feinstein, D-Calif., in collaboration with industry members and CEOs. (TheRoseSheet)
  • Lawmakers Ask FDA To Investigate Microbeads’ Oral-Care Safety. Congress members urge FDA to look into reports suggesting that plastic microbeads’ use in toothpaste poses oral-health risks. Legislation to ban the ingredients has focused on their environmental impact to date; the new consumer-health dimension could help generate support for the federal Microbead-Free Waters Act.  (TheRoseSheet)
  • Sunscreen Innovation Act Starts Clock Ticking On FDA Review Of TEAs. Congress passes legislation to streamline FDA’s process for reviewing UV filter TEA submissions. The bill’s passing during Congress’ lame duck session reflects not only bipartisan support, but also lobbying by the personal-care product industry and consumer-health advocates to impose deadlines on FDA for long-sought changes to the OTC drug sunscreen monograph. (TheRoseSheet)
  • China FDA’s Cosmetics Proposal Could Herald Historic Regulatory Reform. China’s food, drug and cosmetics authority has released proposed changes that would overhaul regulation of the cosmetics industry. The Personal Care Products Council says the draft plan would give manufacturers and distributors “primary responsibility” for product safety substantiation, aligning China’s oversight system more closely with those in the U.S. and EU. (TheRoseSheet)
  • FDA Will Face Reforms, Oversight In Republican Congress – Analysts. Election gains will embolden Republicans to put FDA in Congress’ oversight “crosshairs,” as members of key Senate and House panels scrutinize how the agency is using its resources. Reforms also could come soon as part of the ongoing 21st Century Cures initiative. (TheRoseSheet)
  • SCCS assessment could now mean formaldehyde in nail hardeners will be exempt from ban. The European Commission has given the go ahead for formaldehyde to be used at a maximum  concentration of 2.2% when used in cosmetics that claim to harden or strengthen nails. Formaldehyde is added to nail hardeners for its cross-linking functionality with keratin. (CosmeticsDesign)
  • EU addresses WTO with concern over China’s cosmetics regulations. The European Union has expressed its’ concerns over China’s regulations on cosmetics and medical devices at the World Trade Organisation’s technical standards committee. Backed by Canada and the United States, EU representatives explained they were looking to ensure that China trades fairly, respects intellectual property rights and meets its’ WTO obligations. Behind the US, China is Europe’s second-largest trading partner and the continent is China’s biggest trading partner, making over €1 billion a day in their venture. However, the continents have not been seeing eye to eye lately on numerous trade issues. (CosmeticsDesign)
  • Australia moves to cut red tape on chemical risk assessments. As part of its measures to cut red tape and promote innovation, the Australian government is pushing for greater acceptance of international standards and risk assessments. Following the announcement by prime minister Tony Abbott in October, ministers will write to regulators in their respective portfolios and work with stakeholder groups to develop criteria to assess the acceptance or adoption of “trusted standards and assessments”. (CosmeticsDesign)
  • Japanese government holds ‘coffee morning’ to persuade cosmetic businesses to reduce prices. As part of its efforts to persuade Japanese businesses to slash product prices due to the falling Japanese yen, the Ministry of Economic Affairs (MOEA) invited companies ‘for a cup of coffee’ to talk about special discounts and promotions. (CosmeticsDesign)
  • Lush recognizes Asian players in fight to stamp out animal testing. British cosmetics company Lush has recognized a number of Asian players in its annual Fighting Against Animal Testing 2014 award to highlight efforts to outlaw animal testing. Both prizes in the Public Awareness category went to organisations in the Asia-Pacific region, underlining the fact that the issue is slowly starting to gather more and more support as continued campaigns bring it into the public arena. (CosmeticsDesign)
  • Thailand establishes trade partnerships to export cosmetics to China and Australia. More cosmetics manufactured by Thai companies will ship to these key markets thanks to the work of deputy commerce minister Apiradi Tantraporn and her office, as the Thai cosmetics business is growing both domestically and abroad. (CosmeticsDesign)

Business Portfolio

  • Heavy Beauty M&A Activity Ignites Interest In Small Firms.  With the mergers-and-acquisitions market on full blast, indie beauty brands are scoring big paydays by ending their independence. In the last several months, strategic buyers or private equity firms have scooped up Bite Beauty, NYX, Butter London, Carol’s Daughter, Sayuki Custom Cosmetics, Rodin Olio Lusso, Le Labo and Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle. (CEW)
  • How Estée Lauder Is Planning To Compete In Korean Skincare. Estée Lauder’s skincare business is struggling the most at the moment, with net sales dropping 7 percent in the quarter. CEO Fabrizio Freda acknowledged on the company’s earnings call Tuesday morning that his team needs to increase innovation in that area with the understanding that development is happening in more categories than ever: It’s not just about serums and moisturizers any more, but also about facial oils and masks. (Fashionista)
  • Revlon rebrands with a global tagline and comprehensive marketing campaign. In what’s being called a re-launch of the Revlon brand, the cosmetics company’s new marketing initiative centers on the phrase ‘Love is On’ and incorporates an array of media. The new Revlon Love is On branding will reach consumers in every country where the company is active. (CosmeticsDesign)
  • Marcia Kilgore Sells Soap & Glory to Boots. Kilgore to step away from business immediately. (WWD)
  • L’Oréal India announces major hair dye manufacturing facility. The world’s biggest cosmetic company says it wants to build on its dominant position in the Indian hair dye category with the construction of a manufacturing facility in the state of Himachal Pradesh. The company announced that the facility will be located in Baddi, in the city’s Southwestern Solan district, at a press conference given for Indian media that included The Economic Times. (CosmeticsDesign)
  • Bulldog ‘collaborates to success’ with Boots in exclusive Thailand launch. Men’s skin care brand Bulldog will ‘collaborate to success’ in Thailand with Health and Beauty retailer Boots launching its range of products in Thailand later this month, extending its partnership. Eight facial skin care products and two gift sets will launch exclusively in 120 Boots stores across Thailand on November 26th building on the partnership that began in the UK a number of years ago and helped build Bulldog into the 3rd largest men’s skin care Brand in the UK. (CosmeticsDesign)
  • Avon divides its Latin American business in two. Avon Products has announced the division of its Latin American business, which will soon be separated into southern and northern countries as part of aims to strengthen marketing and field management. The move is part of the company restructuring plan, which is a multiyear turnaround plan designed at making the business more efficient and profitable. (CosmeticsDesign)
  • Glossier’s Emily Weiss Raises Over $10 Million To Reinvent Beauty Industry. Emily Weiss has spent the past four years snooping in the medicine cabinets and makeup cases of some of the world’s most successful and stylish women.The 29-year-old started her beauty website Into The Gloss in 2010, setting aside the hours of 4am through 8am to write up interviews for her side project then heading to her job at Vogue as a fashion assistant. (Forbes)
  • Word-of-mouth responsible for 13% of sales. The study, which was organised by the Word of Mouth Marketing Association (WOMMA), also found that word-of-mouth recommendations act as an amplifier to paid media, such as television advertisements, with consumers then vocally spreading brand messages. (CosmeticsBusiness)

Industry Pulse

  • The Future Of Skin Care. Skin care is at the forefront of technology. Just think about all the products on the market today that didn’t exist (or weren’t as prevalent) when our mothers were growing up — from the Clarisonic to retinols. The industry is progressing so rapidly that we think it’s a good time to take a step back and peek into the future. And, we’ve already uncovered what’s coming down the pipeline for hair — so what about skin? (Refinery29)
  • As beauty brands get savvy about Hispanic market trends, companies are hiring spokespeople and partnering with celebrities to ensure that the face of the industry looks more like the face of America. L’Oreal already works with a number of distinguished Latina women, including Jennifer Lopez, Eva Longoria and Zoe Saldana. (CosmeticsDesign)
  • Forget all about anti-ageing products and the search for the ‘source of eternal youth,’ now the trend is showing off your real age. Datamonitor reports that this is the new revolution in the personal care market; the pro-ageing idea. According to researcher Maria Fernandez, age is now perceived as another step for women’s liberation; proposing to free women from the pressure of perfection and the ideal concept of beauty. (CosmeticsDesign)
  • The study, with an entire section devoted to the personal care product category, ascertained which certification logos and language signify reliably for consumers and B2B decision makers. In a forum separate from the larger survey, UL polled, interviewed and hosted a discussion with a small group of business professionals (purchasing managers and the like) to determine what green product claims effect their choices. (CosmeticsDesign)
  • Facial hair trend does not mean grooming tools are in ‘terminal decline’. According to market researcher Bridgethorne, despite a major decline across Europe in sales of men’s shaving and hair removal products, growth possibilities for niche products like beard oil, beard trimmers and mustache wax are ripe. (CosmeticsDesign)
  • Beauty devices demand helping boost the professional skin care market. The at-home beauty trend appears to be continuing and this is good news for the beauty devices market as well as for professional skin care as people turn towards more cost-effective products to achieve results which might previously have only been possible in a salon or with surgery. (CosmeticsDesign)

Market GPS

  • Make-up market in Italy sees increased demand for anti-ageing. Italian consumers, young and old, want to keep their youthful appearance as long as possible and this is helping drive demand for anti-ageing products in the country. It is the biggest consumption motivator in the Italian make-up market, and currently influences 19.4% of product consumption by volume, according to a new report by Canadean. (CosmeticsDesign)
  • There is a lot of value in Eastern markets due to emerging economies, a focus on ingredient and packaging innovation, and changes in consumer behavior, meaning Asia, along with Latin America and Africa, will be key global consumer markets over the next five years. Market researcher Canadean says that the impact of changes in consumer behavior and industry practices in countries such as Thailand, Mexico and Egypt, and innovations from these countries that are transferred back to developed economies, will be worth up to $1.66 billion worldwide in 2018. (CosmeticsDesign)

Beauty 2.0

  • One Startup’s Novel Approach To Extracting Consumer Data In The Beauty Industry. The beauty industry has long depended upon market research firms for collecting and organizing consumer feedback. Through monitoring personal care data and trends online, startup Poshly intends to give this research cycle a makeover– for brands and consumers, alike. (Forbes)


1938 is the online magazine blog for Well-Kept Beauty, formally entitled Primer.

One Comment on “Monday Morning Memo 12/1

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